If it’s misfiring, the issue may be with the trigger or firing mechanism, which may need to be realigned or replaced. If it’s jammed, start by clearing the jammed staple manually and then test it out on a piece of scrap wood. Is it jammed, misfiring, or no longer delivering staples with the same force? Depending on the issue, there are a few things you can do to fix your staple gun. If you’re having issues with a Stanley staple gun and need to fix it, the first step is identifying the problem. So, take a deep breath, grab your toolbox, and let’s get started! Identifying the Problem Whether it’s a jammed magazine or a broken spring, we’ll tell you what to do and guide you every step of the way. In this step-by-step guide, we’ll show you how to fix your Stanley staple gun in no time. However, like all tools, it can eventually break down or malfunction, leaving you in a tight spot.ĭon’t worry because we’ve got you covered. This tool is a staple (pun intended) in many households and can make even the most challenging jobs a breeze. Plus you run the risk of marring the surface of the painting if you laid it face down to staple on the back of the bar.If you’re fond of doing DIY projects at home, then you know how important your Stanley staple gun is. I can see where it might work if you did all your stapling on the back side of the stretcher bars but most conventional stretching is stapled on the outside edge and would make hooking the bar on a table edge very difficult to do. That would inhibit the use of the stretching pliers, I am afraid. If you can picture how a canvas is physically stretched and where the stretching pliers is placed and how the whole tamale is held for you to staple each spot, you don't have the luxury of placing the edge of the stretcher bar on the edge of a table top. "Have you tried placing the edge of the stretcher bar on a solid backing such as a sturdy table or bench and holding the gun real firmly onto the surface you are stapling" But, even with that convenience, as your compressor loses pressure with use down to that point where it kicks on again to build up to the pressure that is set on your regulator, it will drive the staples with less and less power until such time as it builds back up to whatever pressure you set for it at the air regulator.īuying an air compressor and a pneumatic stapler won't solve this problem completely so you need to have a hammer close by to tap in those stubborn staples as you stretch. This is also a lesser problem with pneumatic staplers although you have the option of increasing or decreasing the "power" of your air stapler according to the type of wood stretcher you are stapling onto by setting your air regulator to a higher or lower operating air pressure. So, if the wood has "hard spots" in it also, it is natural for the staple to meet with more resistence than in the soft wood spots and it won't go in completely. If you are driving a staple into a "soft spot", it will probably seat itself properly because the spring setting of the stapler which causes the "power" of the stapler to drive in the staple is consistent and set by the factory to hammer, at the same strength, every staple you attempt to drive into any wood. The problem isn't with the stapler most times, it is with the composition of the wood stretcher bar and that you have no control over.Īt the risk of Baer challenging my knowledge base, I will simply say that there are "hard spots" and "soft spots" in most every species of wood. Regarding your stapler problem, there really isn't much you can do to make every staple sink into the wood stretcher just at the proper level. First of all, a warm welcome to the Grumble to ya!! You will find a wealth of information here if you learn how to search the archives and find old threads dealing with whatever problem you are facing.
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